Transparency for the Consumer
During the collection and production of raw materials, nature is to be
disturbed as little as possible. Particular care to protect endangered
species is mandated. Genetic manipulation and modification are
rejected. The transformation of raw materials into cosmetics is to be
accomplished with care and with few chemical processes.
Renewable and biodegradable materials are preferred because their
ecological impact is substantially lower, especially when they come
from controlled biological sources or other responsible means using
natural resources. With natural ingredients, one deals with substances
that have been used and studied for ages, so there is a minimal
toxicity potential. Natural products most easily fulfill the
requirement of accountability and socially responsible production.
The choice of technical production methods is limited. Technical
methods cannot be fully eliminated especially when the user's
expectations for purity and performance cannot be met by raw materials
in their natural state. Environmentally-friendly production methods,
renewable and biodegradable materials and minimal use of packaging are
The following guidelines define the concept of natural cosmetics in a
sensible and clear manner, with the consumer's expectations of safe
and ecologically sound products in mind.
1. Raw materials obtained from plants
As far as possible, raw materials obtained from plants should be used
- controlled biological cultivation, taking quality and availability
into account, or
- controlled biological wild collections
2. Animal Protection
- No animal testing may be performed or commissioned when end products
are manufactured, developed or tested.
- Raw materials that were not available on the market before
01.01.1998 may only be used if they have not been tested on animals.
This does not include animal testing performed by third parties who
neither were ordered/prompted by the ordering party to do so nor are
associated to the ordering party by company law or by contract.
- It is prohibited to use raw materials obtained from dead vertebrates
(e.g. spermaceti, terrapin oil, mink oil, marmot fat, animal fats,
animal collagen or living cells).
3. Raw materials obtained from minerals
The use of inorganic salts and raw materials obtained from minerals is
generally permitted, except for those listed in point 5.
4. Raw materials with restricted use
For the production of natural cosmetics, it is permissible to use
components which are extracted through hydrolysis, hydrogenation,
esterification, transesterification or other crackings and
condensations from the following natural materials:
- fats, oils and waxes
- monosaccharides, oligosaccharides and polysaccharides
- proteins and lipoproteins
The actual raw material use is regulated by the positive list for
development and production of certified natural cosmetics.
5. Deliberate rejection of
- organic-synthetic dyes
- synthetic fragrances
- ethoxylated raw materials
- paraffin and other petroleum products
The criterion which determines which aromatic substances are permitted
is mainly ISO 9235.
To ensure that products are microbiologically safe, certain
nature-identical preservatives are allowed in addition to natural
preservatives. These are:
- benzoic acid, its salts and ethylester
- salicylic acid and its salts
- sorbic acid and its salts
- benzyl alcohol
When these preservatives are used, products must be labelled
“preserved with ... [name of preservative]”
7. No radioactive radiation
It is forbidden to disinfect organic raw materials and completed
cosmetic products using radioactive radiation.
8. Certified Natural Cosmetics
A neutral control body checks that the above criteria are complied
with. The association's label is used to indicate that the criteria
have been complied with.
Raw material requirements
- traceable production using clear processes
- education of consumers
Disapproval of genetic engineering
Clear opposition to raw materials extracted from genetically modified
plants or animals. As genetic engineering is a controversial issue in
agriculture and is not justified ecologically, biological cultivation
is supported and genetic engineering is actively rejected.
- only natural sources of raw materials, if possible certified by the
EG-Bio-VO (EG regulation of ecological cultivation)
- environmentally-friendly manufacturing processes
- optimal degradability of raw materials and finished products
- economical, environmentally-friendly and recyclable packaging
- maintenance of natural life principles
- raw materials from fair trading and Third World projects
- use and disposal