Transparency for the Consumer
During the collection and production of raw materials, nature is to be
disturbed as little as possible. Particular care to protect endangered
species is mandated. Genetic manipulation and modification are
rejected. The transformation of raw materials into cosmetics is to be
accomplished with care and with few chemical processes.
Renewable and biodegradable materials are preferred because their
ecological impact is substantially lower, especially when they come
from controlled biological sources or other responsible means using
natural resources. With natural ingredients, one deals with substances
that have been used and studied for ages, so there is a minimal
toxicity potential. Natural products most easily fulfill the
requirement of accountability and socially responsible production.
The choice of technical production methods is limited. Technical
methods cannot be fully eliminated especially when the user's
expectations for purity and performance cannot be met by raw materials
in their natural state. Environmentally-friendly production methods,
renewable and biodegradable materials and minimal use of packaging are
The following guidelines define the concept of natural cosmetics in a
sensible and clear manner, with the consumer's expectations of safe
and ecologically sound products in mind.
1. Raw materials of plant origin
Raw materials of plant origin must
originate from certified organic raw material, provided they consist
of or are obtained from plants that are listed in Annex 1. The
definitions and restrictions contained in Annex 1 are binding with
regard to this.
2. Raw materials of animal origin and animal protection
Raw materials of animal
It is allowed to use substances
that are produced by animals (e.g. milk or honey). It is not allowed
to use raw materials obtained from dead vertebrates (e.g. emu oil,
mink oil, marmot fat, animal fats, collagen or living cells).
Animal testing and end
It is prohibited to carry out
or commission another party to carry out animal testing – not only
when manufacturing products, but also when developing and
controlling the end products.
Animal testing and raw
Raw materials that were tested
on animals after December 31, 1997 must not be used. Any animal
testing carried out by third parties who acted neither on behalf of
nor at the instigation of the raw material producer or supplier, or
the manufacturer of the finished product, and who are not connected
with the preceding parties under company law, are not taken into
3. Raw materials of mineral origin
The use of inorganic and
mineral salts, acids and bases (e.g. magnesium sulphate or sodium
chloride) is generally allowed, except for those listed under point
4. Production processes allowed
Alongside physical processes –
including extraction with water, vegetable alcohol, carbon dioxide,
vegetable fats and oils, and glycerine obtained from these –
enzymatic and microbiological processes as they occur in nature are
also allowed for the production of natural cosmetics.
In addition, substances may be
obtained from natural substances such as fats, oils and waxes,
sugar, starch, cellulose, proteins, polysaccharides and vitamins by
means of hydrolysis, hydrogenation, oxidation, reduction,
esterification or other methods of cleavage and condensation.
Annex 2 contains an open-ended
list of allowed substances (positive list). The restrictions
specified in this list must be observed.
5. Substances not allowed
Substances from the following
groups are not allowed to be used:
- Organic-synthetic dyes
- Synthetic fragrances
- Ethoxylated raw materials
- Paraffin and other petroleum derived products
For the purpose of consumer
protection, the following nature-identical preservatives may be used
- Benzoic acid and its salts
- Salicylic acid and its salts
- Sorbic acid and its salts
- Benzyl alcohol
- Dehydroacetic acid and its salts
If these preservatives are
used, the following addition is necessary: “preserved with... [name
of the preservative]”.
Natural fragrances that comply
with ISO 9235 are allowed. Fragrances of biotechnological origin may
also be used.
8. Radioactive irradiation
It is not allowed to treat raw
materials of plant and animal origin or end products with ionizing